Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Maroon Peak South Elevation: 14156 ft / 4315 m
Undoubtedly, the Maroon Bells (North and South Maroon Peak) are Colorado’s most recognized mountains, for these peaks are likely the most photographed mountains in North America. The popularity is easily explainable; in spring, summer, fall and winter, these peaks are stunning to look at. It’s that simple. Nothing beats their pyramid symmetry framed inside the gorgeous Maroon Lake u-shaped valley. The composition is perfect and memorable. And it’s why legions upon legions of vacationers visit these peaks. Lastly, a potent combination of popularity and picture perfection tends to cultivate a powerful lure among mountaineers….and the casual visitor, to make the summit.
The White River forest service likes to call them the “Deadly Bells” for every year these peaks do claim human life. Considering the high traffic, the Deadly Bells are probably not as deadly as one may think. However, it’s imperative to understand what it takes to climb these peaks and what it takes to do it in a safe manner. Ascending the Bells is a climb, not a hike.
First, these peaks are made up of crumbling sedimentary rock. The potential for rock fall is real, and likely is the number one hazard to be aware of while climbing. Don’t be an idiot and climb these peaks without a helmet and always know where others are in relation to you. Second, know and understand the weather. South Maroon’s standard class 3, South Ridge Route is very long and requires a lot of time above tree line where lightning tends to hang out. Spending time hanging out with lightning and hail will make you crap your pants. Third, without the existing cairns, the route finding for a casual climber could be a nightmare. Terrain from crumbling rock tends to be tough to discern a route. The fact of this matter is that there are cairns and this helps immensely, but keep in mind that the mountain hosts almost too many cairns. Trust your mountaineering instincts not somebody’s pile of rocks. Lastly, please understand your physical limits. Everyone will respect you for turning around as much as they will respect you for making a summit. The best mountaineering debates take place when someone disregards their physical limits.
The standard climbing routes for North and South Maroon Peak are very different, with the exception that both peaks are loose and dangerous. For South Maroon, I would describe the South Ridge Route as a strenuous exercise in route finding and determination. The route is only class 3 but it is long and steep. For most, the route will take maybe 9 to 11 hours to complete.
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